Ephesus (Efes) - Selçuk

Ephesus (Efes/ Ἔφεσος) was one of the most important cities in ancient Anatolia (Asia Minor), which makes it nowadays one of the most important touristic attractions (especially for travelers on Mediterranean cruises). There would be (too) much to say about it and its (partially debated) history. There are plenty of resources regarding Ephesus but for more details you could have a look on Wikipedia or visit www.Ephesus.us. For some very interesting information you should also check sacred-destinations.com.

Nowadays Ephesus is by far the most visited place in the area (a little too crowded for my taste - and I went there at the end of spring) and is constantly being restored. But a visit to Ephesus should mean the entire area nearby Selçuk town, not only the Ephesus ancient ruins outside of Selçuk, since the Ephesus town extended during different historical periods to different areas closeby.

I'll start though with photos from the House of Virgin Mary, a pilgrimage place for Christians situated on the top of the "Bulbul" mountain, a few km from Ephesus. It is said to be the place where Virgin Mary may have spent her last days. She may have come in the area together with Saint John, who spent several years in the area to spread Christianity. The Mass is held here every Sunday.


Coming down the mountain one can reach the entrance to the actual Ephesus site. There's plenty too see here, so make sure you are not in a hurry. Just to mention some of the main archaeological attractions :
  • Upper/State Agora - surrounded by Nymphaeum, Varius Baths, Basilica, Senate House (Bouleuterion/Odeon/Small Theatre), Prytaneum, Temple of Domitian
  • Walking down the street dedicated to the Kouretes, one can see, before reaching the Library of Celsus, the Temple of Hadrian, the Slope Houses with the well preserved fine mosaics, roman monuments and private dwellings, as well as the Brothel and Latrine.

  • The Library of Celsus - the symbol of Ephesus, restored from rubble during the years 1970-1978. Its 30 bookcases held about 12000 scrolls.

  • A marble road, made probably with materials from former temples, passes by the Lower Agora. The lower Agora can be accessed through a triumphal Roman Gate from the Library of Celsus.
  • The Roman Theatre - has 25000 seats, from which can be deducted that Ephesus might have had a population of around 200000.
  • The Arcadiane Way - a monumental street that leads to the now silted harbor. It was closed to the public during my visit.
  • The Church of Mary (Meryem Kilisesi) - possibly the first church dedicated to the Virgin Mary in the world and the site of the Council of Ephesus in 431.
  • Ruins of the stadium built by emperor Nero can be seen on our way to the national road.




Going around the visiting site, between Meryem Ana Yolu and Efes Yolu, one can find the Cave of the Seven Sleepers, on the eastern slope of Panayirdag hill. It is said that seven Christians were locked in this cave by the Romans in 250 AD, fell asleep, and woke up in the 5th century. It became a place of burial and pilgrimage, both for Christians and Muslims.

At the edge of the modern town of Selçuk one can find a single column, standing in the swamp, a column that was once part of one of the Seven Wonders of the World - the Temple of Artemis (Artemision/Ἀρτεμίσιον).
On the slopes of Ayasoluk Hill, just below the fortress of Selçuk, the Basilica of St. John can be visited. It was a great church in Ephesus, constructed by Emperor Justinian in the 6th century, over the believed burial site of St. John the Apostle. Unfortunately I got there too late in the day and what I saw was only the (closed) Gate of Persecution.



Basically these mentioned above and the Ephesus Museum (Efes Müzesi) are all that was related to Ephesus (oh ... and the
Byzantine aquaducts throughout the town), but you can't leave Selçuk without visiting the Isabey Mosque - a beautiful example of Seljuk Turkish architecture, built in 1375 and restored in 1934, with columns that seem to have been part of the Artemision.


Kusadasi (Kuşadası)



Situated on the Aegean coast, Kusadasi (written as Kuşadası with Turkish letters and also known as Ephesus Neopolis or Scala Nuova before the 20th century) is one of the most important resorts of Turkey. While its permanent residents are around 50 000, during summer the rather large resort bustles with tourists, reaching about ten times as many people.

The water is very salty but crystal clear, while the beaches are rather narrow, especially near the town center (eg. Ladies Beach - Kadınlar Denizi) - this means that it can get very crowded during high season (and I wasn't impressed by the quality of the sand either). Because of the rather long distances (the resort has more than 10km in length) and the fact that the best beaches are actually outside Kusadasi, getting from one place to the other can get difficult. So you can have either a quieter beach OR enjoy the attractions of the town center - shops, restaurants and especially the Bazaar. There are always the local minibuses (the "dolmus"), but they have fixed routes and you'll have to get informed regarding them. Regarding the personal car or a car rental - the petrol is really expensive (around 3.8 TRY = almost 2 euros).

I mentioned the Bazaar and with this occasion I'd like to say something about Turkish shopping. Everyone wants to get the most money from you (even for some doubtful products) and almost everything is negotiable - it may be hard to get rid of some persistent salesmen without buying anything. You can find all sorts of things for sale, from leather, hand-made carpets and jewelry to trinkets and traditional sweets. For me the plethora of "original imitations" (as one salesman named them :) ) didn't impress me at all (since they were anyway overpriced), but among the products worth buying I'd name the sweets (from dried or candied fruit to the traditional Turkish Delight [Lokum] or the delicious Baklava), the (denim) jeans (best prices) and the Pashmina (Cashmere wool) or silk textiles, such as the shawls.

The food in turkey - ok, but I didn't find anything especially delightful besides the sweets - and the restaurants in the resort are all overpriced. With this occasion I'd like to say hello to friendly Ali, really nice guy, from the "Rip-off"... I ment "Two-Brothers" restaurant [1. Sk, in front of Melike Hotel] - sorry Ali, but I owed the restaurant some advertising for the money.

So far this was my overall impression about Kusadasi - a little too large and crowded for my tastes, with mediocre beach(es?) and overpriced restaurants. But, next comes the good parts.
The resort wouldn't be so special if it didn't have a rich history, near many important archaeological sites of Anatolia/Asia Minor, such as Ephesus, Priene, Dydima or Miletus. A more complete list can be found at kusadasi.net, while some of the places I've been to will be presented in future posts.

There are also interesting places inside the town worth visiting and I'll mention them below, along with some personal photos (taken from the entire album) and the location on the map :
  • The city walls - There were once three gates. One remains today.
  • Harbor/Kusadasi Cruise Terminal - this is the place to see some of the finest cruise ships, but also some military ones from time to time.



  • Guvercin Ada - the peninsula at the end of the bay, with the 17th century castle - symbol of the city. Nowadays it's a relaxing place with a restaurant and beaches.
  • Yılancı Burnu - a second peninsula beyond Güvercin Ada. Possibly the location of the original settlement of Neopolis. Some walls are visible but excavations are underway. There are beaches and beach clubs here.
  • The Atatürk Statue looking over the city. It can be easily seen from the docks, but there's also a great view of the port if you're willing to get there.

I'd also like to mention some places nearby, but I didn't go there myself:
  • Aqua parks such as Adaland - "the biggest waterpark in Europe" (don't mind wikimapia... it is actually still in Asia :) )
  • Dilek Peninsula National Park - simply the idea of National park seems fantastic for a nature love, especially contrasting with the crowded Kusadasi.
Next ... some of the very interesting archaeological sites in Anatolia, as soon as I have the time for a blogpost.